Oglebird and Whinfell

THE LORDSHIP of the manor Oglebird and Whinfell lies for the most part in the extensive parish of Brougham. It has always been separate from the Lordship of the Manor of Brougham and is centred on the castle of Brougham and the surrounding park and chase called Whinfell. Brougham lies 2 miles from Penrith and Whinfell around 2 miles east of the village centre.

The Lordship has always been a parcel of the Barony of Westmorland and has therefore passed like that title from the Stutevilles to the Morevilles to the Veteriponts to the Clifford and finally to the Tufton family. (see the Barony of Westmoreland in this catalogue and the memorial to the Lords Hothfield). Whinfell was administered from Brougham Castle. This fortification is thought to have been built on the top of a Roman station. The central stone keep was erected in around 1170 and in 1204 Robert de Veteripont had the outer walls constructed. In 1245 it was found that ‘the walls and roof had gone to decay for want of repairing the gutters’ Robert’s grandson, also Robert then had this repaired. 25 years later, in 1270 an outer gatehouse was erected by Roger de Clifford, who had married the co-heiress of the Veteriponts.

Roger de Clifford II added the upper portion of the gatehouse in 1310, with an inner gatehouse erected five years later. In 1333, the King of Scots, Edward Balliol, who was enjoying a period of rapport with his nation’s traditional enemy, came to stay and hunt at Brougham, as a guest of Robert de Clifford. In 1380 Roger de Clifford III is said to have built the greater part of the castle, ‘next the east’. There is a small stone which bears the inscription, in raised letters, ‘Thys made Roger’. The stone was moved in 1830 so the exact part referred to is not known. Brougham was evidently used as part of a chain of northern fortifications used both in defence against a Scottish attack and as bases of operations for invasions north. In 1380, at the appointment of sheriffs in Westmorland instructions were made to local stone cutters and, masons and labourers to hasten to Brougham to repair the castle. Whatever preparations were made proved inadequate in the face of a fierce Scottish invasion in 1403. During this the Lordship of Whinfell was overrun: ‘The demesne is laid waste, by reason of the Scots, so that the whole profits of the castle and demesne are not sufficient for the repairing and keeping of the former.’

The demesne is question consisted of the area known as Whinfell Forest, which is still existent today. Much of the land was composed of enclosed park land, used by the Lords of the Manor, and in particular, the Cliffords for hunting. On the death of Robert de Clifford in 1309 it was found that he had died seised of one park, with herbage valued at £5 per year. The wooded part of the park were famous locally for three ancient oak trees known as the Three Brothers, the remains of which could still be seen in the 19th century. It was said to have measured over 40 feet in circumference. In 1334, as was noted above, Brougham Castle was visited by King Edward Balliol of Scotland, as a guest of Robert de Clifford. The king moved from Appleby Castle to Brougham in order to hunt. There is a story which goes that during this stay, Edward and Clifford went on a hunt in which a stag was chased, by them and a single greyhound, from Whinfell park to Red Kirk in Scotland, and back again. On the animals return the stag leapt over some pales, but the greyhound dropped dead in the attempt. When the stag was finally caught its antlers were nailed to a nearby tree, known from then on as Hart’s Horn Tree, which was still standing 150 years later. In memory of the dog, Hercules, the following was composed;

Hercules killed a Hart a-grease

A Hart a-grease killed Hercules

The court leet of the Lordship of this Lordship was held in the forest itself and was known as the Manor of Oglebird. The origin of this name is not known since there is no record of a place or man of this name. The only reference which can be found for Oglebird is an estate purchased by the Duchess of Pembroke at Temple Sowerby, known as Oglebird.

The boundaries of Lordship of Oglebird and Whinfell appear to have caused problems between the Lords of the Manor and the Brougham family, who owned a considerable part of the parish. In 1775 when the common was divided and enclosed it was found that the Broughams could put forward no manorial claims here. Further investigation found that it belonged to the Tufton family, who were the earls of Thanet. The current descendent of this family, Lord Hothfield is the present Lord of the Manor of Oglebird and Whinfell.

Brougham Castle too came to the Tuftons. In 1539 it was evidently in ruins since it was recorded that, "At Burgham is an old Castel thatt he commune people ther sayeth doth synke. The Castle is set in a stonge place by reasons of Ryvers enclosing the Cuntery thereabowt.” In 1550 extensive repairs were undertaken by Henry de Clifford, the second earl of Cumberland, ‘so much...as kept him from doing anything at Brough’. These repairs must have been considerable, and lasting , Since Charles I stayed here in 1629, on his progress to Scotland. 20 years later, during the latter period of the Civil War, the castle was said to have been demolished by Parliamentary troops. However, in 1651, Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke , who wished to live in Westmorland undertook another rebuilding programme. She wrote of it; ‘after I had been there myself to direct the building of it, did I cause my old decayed castle of Brougham to be repaired and also the the tower called Roman Tower, in the said old castle, and the court house, for keeping my courts in, with some dozen or fourteen rooms to be built in it upon the old foundations.’ These repairs lastıed only thirty years when Thomas, Lord Tufton had it demolished. In 1714 the remaining stone, lead and timber were sold to two attorneys in Penrith. From 1789 there is a ‘romantic’ description of the ruin, the exploration and of which was newly fashionable,

‘A fine old ruin, built of reddish freestone. Like most of northern strong-holds,

this castle is built in a square form. No place can exhibit more striking remains

of that gloomy strength for which these edifices of defence were so remarkable;

arched vaults, winding passages in the walls, so narrow as to not admit more

than one person at once; the doors of these passages contracted to a mere hole,

through which no one can enter without stooping; and the remains of vast

bolts and mHassy hinges, give us a lively idea of those times of danger and

jealousy, when the lord was almost a prisoner in his own castle...The dungeon

or keep where prisoners were confined has walls four or five yards thick....

In the centre stands the Sweating Pillar, from its being continually covered

with a moisture or dew, which at its top divides itself into eight branches.

These extremities terminate near the ground in deformed heads of animals,

and each of these heads hold sin its mouth an iron ring, probably intended

for the chaining of unruly and riotous prisoners.’

Rights, customs and incidents

The court leet of the Lordship of this Lordship was held in the forest itself and was known as the Manor of Oglebird.

Historical holder / succession information

1. Duchess of Pembroke at Temple Sowerby, known as Oglebird
   purchased_by · historical_holder_or_transferee
   Source wording: The only reference which can be found for Oglebird is an estate purchased by the Duchess of Pembroke at Temple Sowerby, known as Oglebird.
2. Lord Hothfield
   current_holder_statement · catalogue_stated_current_holder
   Source wording: The current descendent of this family, Lord Hothfield is the present Lord of the Manor of Oglebird and Whinfell.